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Xtracycle Build : 10 Step Build Process
by Bike Shop GirlThis has been a long time coming but a few snafu’s in the second week of riding the bike caused the Xtracycle to get “hung up” until I could have someone fabricate a metal bridge for me. Without further excuses :
Step One : Remove your rear wheel, derailleur, chain and brakes from the bike. Put these to the side as you will need them shortly.
Step Two : Attach the carpet material to the Front Attachment Plate (FAP) and then gather these parts: French Nut (2), Spacer Washer (2) (if you have a 130mm rear end) 32mm bolts (2), FAP Bolt, FAP, washer and nut
Step Three : Thread 32mm bolts through Free Radical and into your French Nut and Spacer Washer (if needed.) Do not tighten as now you are going to sit the drops out of your bike in between Spacer Washer and French Nut.
Step Four : Align and hold with left hand your Free Radical so it is sitting FAP above chainstay bridge (if you have a chainstay.) I attached my FAP bolt through the tongue of the Free Radical, behind my chainstay bridge, through the FAP and finally into the washer bolt. Do not tighten should be only hand tight.
Step Five : Tighten FAP bolt securely. Making sure drop outs are pressed against French Bolt, tighten 32mm bolt, you may need an adjustable or cone wrench to hold the French Bolt into place.
Step Six : Reinstall Rear Wheel, I needed to purchase a larger rear rotor (203mm) as this is what the Xtracycle is set up with for more stopping power and heat displacement.
Step Seven :Reinstall Rear Derailleur and Brake with extra long cables and housing provided by Xtracycle. I needed even more brake housing with this than Xtracycle provided as I run full length housing down my bike to my disc brake.
Step Eight : Add the chain links to your old chain, reinstall chain. Please make sure to check the life of your chain/cassette before doing this. If you they are worn it will cause the new segment of chain to slip. Click here if you need help adjusting your derailleur.
Step Nine : Check everything over, refer to Xtracycle and your owners manual for specific questions.
Step Ten : Go ride already!
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Notes: Please grease all threads and bolts. If there is interest of specific directions on parts please let me know. This is a brief run down to show that building an Xtracycle is not as difficult or daunting if you have some bike mechanic skills!
In your step 4, the FAP is actually “below” the chainstay bridge and the long bolt goes “in front of” the bridge, not behind. I know that the bike is flipped upside-down, but the text wording of that step is confusing, especially to the novice. Thank God you took great illustrative photos!
The positioning of that long bolt isn’t crucial, of course, if you have vertical dropouts. It can go in front of or behind the bridge, as it only provides up/down clamping force, not front/back stability. Probably better to put it in front (like you did), though, for safety’s sake.
Nice buildup series — it really is easy to do this with just a smidgen of bike mechanic skills, and it’s great to see another visual tutorial to help flesh out the instructions that come with the kit.
Also worth mentioning is that the rear disc brake caliper adapter has to be for a 160mm rotor to be used with that 203mm rotor. You’re correct in saying that a 203 is better for increased load weight, but the real reason it needs to be configured that way is because of the Free Radical’s design.
See Xtracycle’s documentation here. Even though they try to make it sound like a feature, it’s really a quirk.
Ha ha, good point — because it IS a quirk! A 203mm rotor would have to be on the front of the bike to be considered a “feature” (better braking up front and all that), and Xtra leaves the front of the bike alone in their buildup.
Thing is, Ghost Rider, it’s really hard to unweight the rear wheel of a loaded Xtra, so there is some real-world advantage to having a bigger rear rotor…
Did you or anyone else have an issue with the FAP interfering with the rear derailleur cable routing? Specifically, the FAP is interfering with running the cable from the bottom bracket plastic router (underneath the BB) to the chainstay braze-on (where the ferrell sits and cable housing begins). Thanks!
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You’re correct in saying that a 203 is better for increased load weight, but the real reason it needs to be configured that way is because of the Free Radical’s design.
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real reason it needs to be configured that way is because of the Free Radical’s design.
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